- Over-the-range, built-in, combo, and drawer microwaves
- No-heat, no-start, sparking, and dead-panel faults
- High-voltage components handled safely and discharged
- Honest advice when replacement is the cheaper answer
Runs but does not heat
This is the defining microwave complaint: the turntable spins, the light is on, the timer counts down, and the food is cold. The cause is in the high-voltage circuit — the magnetron, the high-voltage diode, the capacitor, or the transformer.
This is genuinely dangerous work. A microwave capacitor stores a lethal charge that remains after the unit is unplugged, which is why this is not a DIY repair no matter what a video suggests. Our technicians discharge the capacitor and test properly before touching anything in that circuit.
Will not start, sparks, or the panel is dead
A microwave that does nothing when you press start is most often a door interlock switch. There are several, they must agree, and one failed switch stops the whole appliance — this is a safety design working as intended. Interlocks are inexpensive and a common, quick fix.
Arcing or sparking inside the cavity usually means a burned waveguide cover, damaged cavity paint, or metal in the wrong place. A burned waveguide cover should be handled promptly. Dead or partially dead touchpads are a membrane or control board fault, and on over-the-range units the vent fan and its charcoal filter are their own separate service item.
Which microwaves are worth repairing
We will be direct: a low-cost countertop microwave that needs a magnetron is not economical to repair. If that is what you have, we will say so rather than charge you a diagnostic to arrive at the obvious.
Over-the-range, built-in, wall-oven combination, and microwave-drawer units from GE, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, LG, Samsung, Bosch, Sharp, Thermador, and Panasonic are worth repairing and are what we mainly service.