- Jams cleared and units unseized on the spot
- Leak source identified — flange, hose, or failed body seal
- Replacement sized to how the kitchen actually gets used
- Dishwasher drain and knockout plug issues resolved
Humming, jammed, or completely dead
A disposal that hums but will not spin is jammed. The motor is energized and the impeller cannot turn, and leaving it in that state will trip the internal overload or burn out the motor. We clear the jam, free the flywheel, and check that the shredder ring and impellers are not damaged.
A disposal that does nothing at all is either tripped, unpowered, or finished. There is a red reset button on the bottom of nearly every unit, and pressing it solves a real share of these calls. If reset power is present and the motor still will not run, the motor has failed, and on most models replacement is the sensible answer rather than repair.
Leaks and drainage
Disposal leaks have three usual sources: the sink flange at the top where the plumber's putty has dried out, the dishwasher inlet connection on the side, and the body of the unit itself. A leak from the flange or a hose connection is a repair. A leak from the body shell means the internal seal is gone and water is running through the motor housing — that unit needs replacing.
If your dishwasher is also draining poorly, we check the disposal knockout plug. On new installations that plug is frequently left in place, which blocks the dishwasher drain line completely.
Replacement and sizing
When replacement is the answer, we size it properly. A 1/3 horsepower unit in a busy family kitchen jams constantly, which is why so many builder-grade disposals fail early. Stepping up to 1/2 or 3/4 horsepower with better grind stages solves the problem for years.
We work with InSinkErator, Waste King, Moen, KitchenAid, and Whirlpool disposals, in both continuous-feed and batch-feed configurations.