- Chest, upright, and garage freezers repaired
- Not-freezing, over-frosting, leaking, and noisy units
- Priority scheduling to save a full freezer of food
- Start relays, fans, thermostats, and defrost parts stocked
Not freezing, or freezing too much
A freezer that will not reach temperature is normally a start relay or capacitor that has failed, a condenser fan or coil packed with dust and pet hair, a thermostat that has drifted, or a defrost system that quit and let the evaporator ice over solid. In a garage in a Nashville summer, a unit not rated for high ambient temperatures will also simply lose the fight against the heat.
Heavy frost buildup on the walls of a manual-defrost chest freezer is usually a lid gasket that no longer seals, or a lid left ajar. On frost-free uprights, that same buildup points at the defrost heater, defrost thermostat, or timer or control board — the same defrost family that fails in refrigerators.
Noise, leaks, and running constantly
A freezer that runs without ever cycling off is losing cold as fast as it makes it — bad gasket, iced evaporator, dirty condenser, or a low refrigerant charge. Distinguishing the last one matters, because a sealed-system leak on an older chest freezer often means it is time to replace rather than repair.
Water on the floor around a freezer usually traces to a blocked defrost drain or a drain pan that has cracked. Both are straightforward fixes once the actual source is confirmed.
Save the food first
When you call about a freezer, we will tell you what to do while you wait: keep the lid shut, cover the unit with blankets, and move what you can to another freezer. A full chest freezer left closed holds safe temperature far longer than most people expect.
We service chest and upright freezers, garage-ready models, and the freezer side of standalone column refrigeration from Frigidaire, GE, Whirlpool, Maytag, Danby, Midea, Summit, Sub-Zero, and more.