- No-drain, no-clean, leaking, and no-start repairs
- Hard-water scale and spray-arm blockage addressed
- Drain pumps, inlet valves, latches, and boards stocked
- Built-in, panel-ready, and drawer dishwashers
Water in the bottom, or water on the floor
Standing water at the end of a cycle means the machine cannot drain: a blocked filter or sump, a jammed drain pump, a clogged air gap at the sink, or — very commonly — a garbage disposal whose knockout plug was never removed when the dishwasher was installed. That last one turns up in brand-new installations more than anyone expects.
Leaks come from the door gasket, the door vent, the water inlet valve, the sump seal, or the hose connections underneath. We find the actual source rather than sealing the symptom, because water running under a kitchen cabinet does expensive damage quietly.
Not cleaning properly
When dishes come out dirty, the machine is usually not getting enough water, enough heat, or enough spray pressure. We check the inlet valve and fill level, the circulation pump and wash motor, the heating element, the spray arm jets, and the filter — hard-water scale plugs spray-arm holes gradually, so the decline feels like the machine simply got old.
The detergent dispenser matters too. A latch that will not release mid-cycle means detergent never reaches the wash, and no amount of rinse aid fixes that. We also flag the simple causes honestly: overloading, blocked spray arms, and rinse aid that ran out months ago.
Controls, latches, and every major brand
Touch panels, control boards, and door latch switches are a genuine failure category on modern dishwashers — a machine that will not start at all is very often a latch switch, not a board. We test the cheap part first.
We service Bosch, KitchenAid, Whirlpool, GE, Café, LG, Samsung, Frigidaire, Maytag, Thermador, Miele, and Fisher & Paykel dish drawers.